South Africa Pics


Sean, Claire, Sami, Tiff, Anna, Dyllon, and Jenny

South Africa Sunset as we left

Table Mountain and the "table cloth"

The townships

Me and the kids chilling out

Some kids giving the thumbs

Bonga and Vooya in front of Bonga's House

Anna and her posse

Just 2 guys having a good time

Township from the lookout

Me at Cape Point

Cape Point... pretty cool

enough said

I could have ran him down

us with the boys at the concert

one of the posters at Robben Island Museum

The food court of the mall... out of control

Sunrise of Table Mountain, pulling into South Africa

Brazil Pics


KY... you know, Brian... you will find out

Andrea and I contemplating jumping off a waterfall
Yes his shoes match his Speedo

2nd highest waterfall in the world
Bennett, Dave, and Tina passed out in the van



right before I jumped off the cliff








Recap of South Africa

While it’s hard to put into words all that happened to me here, I can truly say that South Africa is one of the most vibrant and enriching places I have ever been. I loved Brasil, but this was entirely different. I liked Brasil because it was something completely different and a unique experience that was due to the generosity of Daniel. South Africa was amazing because of the people and how amazing everyone is. They were so nice and I realized that we had so much to learn from them.
From the kids in the township, they have nothing. They live on nothing and they live in what we would call filth. They barely have enough money to clothe themselves. Yet, they are the happiest people I have ever met. They live in conditions we would look at pictures of and pity, but they do not want your pity. They want you to realize how good you have it. In a place where they have everything in the world to complain about, they do not complain about nothing. This is extremely hard to go from this to the ship where people are complaining about how the peanut butter tastes. We are so spoiled that even the things we think of as our rights to have, they know that they can’t take them for granted. Electricity is rare there. Drinking water? Good luck. New house? Not a chance. Bed to sleep on? If they are lucky. They are the most grateful people I the world and the saddest thing is how often they all thanked us for coming. This was more than the money that we were paying to come there that would help them see some of their own country or allow for opportunities that usually wouldn’t be possible, but they were thanking us for coming so that we can see how they live and so that we can go and tell their story to other people. While this sounds like a pity party, it wasn’t. They weren’t complaining, they just wanted someone to understand where they were coming from. They were thanking us, but in the end, we are the ones that should have been thanking them. It was an eye opener of what happiness really is. While I don’t know what it is yet, I think those kids in the townships have an idea. They don’t want anything. All they want is the friends and family around them. They are not distracted by iPods or computers or the internet. They only know love and each other. Both of which are not guaranteed due to the malnutrition/disease/and the risk of HIV. All of which we take for granted. It makes me think twice when I start complaining about how bad the food is for lunch or how bad the dining hall food used to be at CSU, because after all… I don’t have to worry about if I’m going to eat today or tomorrow. I take this for granted. Food is food. They know this more than any other.
Another thing to take away from South Africa is the way they have coped from the Apartheid. Apartheid is one of the most gruesome forms of institutionalized racism we have ever known. It ended a mere 12 years ago. In the United States, slavery ended over 150 years ago. The civil rights era was over 40 years ago. In something that didn’t necessarily happen to anyone alive today, we are still fighting about this problem in America. It’s not equal, there is a reason to fight, but there is no reason to complain. I can see how black people in America had no choice and were taken from their homes in Africa so long ago and the difference between us and South Africa where people came into their home land and took over their native land. The closest thing to a black person in South Africa is a Native America in America because they know what it is like. The difference is, in South Africa, they do not have a problem with it. There is still blatant inequality that exists (made evident by the townships) but there is no anger from those oppressed the most. The crazy thing is Apartheid happened to them. 12 years ago. That is in their life time! They know what its like to be beaten just for the color of their skin where the majority of people in America are lucky enough to no longer have to worry about this or ever had to experience it. South Africans lived this and have no malice in their hearts toward white people. It was the system, not the person that was holding them down. Whites and blacks alike, they have forgotten about it and moved on. Things aren’t perfect but I feel they have made more progress in 12 years in their country than we have in 150 years in ours. We have a lot to learn.
I would like to see more of Africa and not just South Africa because of all the lessons that can be taught from the culture here.
I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again, I do not know how another country will have more of an impact on me than South Africa did. The rest of this voyage has a lot to live up to. I think it will take longer for me to come to terms with all that I really learned in South Africa but it was something that pictures won’t show, that stories won’t illustrate, and that only by experiencing it through your own eyes can you know how great it is.

You do not know beauty until you see South Africa
You do not know poverty until you see South Africa
You have know idea how good you have it until you see South Africa
I love South Africa

JAWS!!!

Well as you would expect I didn’t sleep and just went out all night long for the last night on Long St. I knew Andrea had gotten back sometime throughout the night and figured she would be down there and went looking for her. I never found her but found plenty of trouble anyway. I had plenty of drinks and before I knew it I was on a sail boat with some random guys named Cory and Antony that were from the UK down here learning how to sail. We sat around and talked about the sail boat. I think it’s weird that in 5 ports, I have managed to get on 2 private sail boats for an after hours party. I hadn’t seen Anna or Tina since much earlier and they happened to be standing by the ship with Cory and Antony (whom I had met at a bar earlier that night). The guys were trying to persuade the girls to come back with them and since I was there, now it was ok for us all to go. It sounded like a good idea so Wendy, Jessie, Anna, Tina, and I went for the adventure. Mind you this is 4am. I had to leave about 5am so I didn’t stay long and Anna and Tina came back with me. Wendy and Jess stayed with them and apparently had much more fun including getting pulled up the mast for a sunrise later which I obviously missed out on. They were genuinely nice guys that just wanted someone to chill with. They had no intentions which were nice and not like what I would expect from someone in America.
So there I was, getting back on the ship, grabbing my swim suit and getting ready to go off in a bus to jump in the Indian Ocean and going fishing for Great White Sharks! The guy told us about rough waters and to make sure we ate before we went on the water. Breakfast and Lunch were included and being that we left at 5:30am, they had better fed me. I never realized that going out the night before and not sleeping would be the biggest mistake of my life.
We get on this shark diving boat about 2 hours later and set out to see. It wasn’t long before we shut off the engines and starting “chumming” the water for sharks. Basically we just dump a shit ton of tuna in the water and wait for them to come up to us. It didn’t take long, within 30 minutes there were Great Whites all around. It was cool when they would grab onto the bait and make a big scene crashing into the cage. They were quite the large animal and I can understand why they can kill people haha. If I had teeth like that, I think I’d do the same.
Well, as cool as this was, I had to add some of my own entertainment to the day. The captain told us that vomit would only help the sharks, so I felt I had to do my part. It didn’t take long to get sick rocking back and forth on a small boat in the middle of the Indian Ocean. I figured I was just getting the party started and before long everyone would have their head over the side throwing up. This was not the case. I threw up 9 times… and yes, I threw up on a shark as well. I showed him who was boss. The thing that I have to point out is that although I was losing anything in my body for the remainder of the day, I didn’t let it ruin my day. I took it on like a pro (or so I thought) and got in the cage anyway. I gave those sharks hell. I think I could have jumped on a few and rode one for awhile if they would have let me.
While it was extremely fun, I was bored not long after. It was just another animal after 10 minutes of looking at them that I needed more than just a shark in the water to look at. I’m a people person, and although I’m glad I went shark diving, it wasn’t all it was cracked up to be. I turned out to be the only person to throw up, I was disappointed in the British lady that kept trying to throw up but couldn’t. There was something cool about someone from England vomiting all over the place considering my stereotype of them is that they are all stuck up and proper. I guess, in the end, she is still as classy as ever.
I will admit I have never been more happy to step foot on land in my entire life. I actually hugged it when I stepped off the shark boat. It was that great. South Africa was coming to a close and I knew I would be sad to see it end. I sent some postcards and then sadly watched the boat pull away (or so we thought, damn fuel bunker) from a place I was close to calling my home.

Africa Jam

I had originally planned on going to the townships with Victor the next day because I felt that if I came to South Africa and didn’t go to see a township that I would be doing a disservice to the country. Semester at Sea (yes, I said it… Google Alert) told us not to go into the townships independently but I was running out of opportunities to go and hearing that some of the trips simply drove through the townships wasn’t going to cut it for me. Semester at Sea is so concerned with the safety of the students that we never get to experience all there is to see and learn from these people. For this reason, I was going to go alone.
Fortunately, I got a call around 11am from Jenny and she wanted to know if I wanted to do Africa Jam. I wanted to do it all along but it was booked and this was the big fundraiser day as well so I jumped all over it. It might have been expensive but the money went to an after school program for kids that lived off less than $1 a day. I figure they need it more than I do. We all packed into a 2 vans and there were about 20 of us total on the way to Kayelitscha Township. This had about 2 million people living in it and this was comprised of nothing but black people. Coloureds have their own township across the street and it is strictly segregated by culture not by law, at least not anymore.
The tour guides were both from the townships. My driver, Winston, was from a coloured township and had been working with Africa Jam since it started 6 years ago. He was extremely knowledgeable and only about 25 so he could interact and fit in with us well. He was full of stories and things about the program but someone that was constantly smiling and telling us what life was like in the townships.
We pulled up to the lookout that is built so that everyone can see the townships and how large they are. We had to walk up all these steps to get a look and to take pictures. The government is busy trying to build nicer houses so that people can move into them and give them better living conditions than living in rickety shacks. The interesting thing was where they were building these newer, nicer houses. They seemed to only build alongside the road and around the lookout. While the answer to the location of these houses is not known, it seemed like the government was trying to cover up how bad it was. Since most of the trips simply drove through and went to the lookout point, these nicer houses would be most of what people saw. The government seemed to be trying to hide what was really going on here. So instead of helping out all over the townships, they were helping out in areas that tourists came and trying to keep them away from the actual bad parts. If you only drive on the road and look from the lookout point, then it looks as if the townships aren’t that bad. Yes, it is poor. Yes, the houses are small. But they are much nicer than what it really is. They try their best to cover it up. I guess if no one sees the inequality then people might think it doesn’t exist.
Luckily, we went into the township. We went into the heart of it. We pulled up to this shack that was held up by one 4x4 piece of wood in the middle and the walls were pieces of metal all around. There were small children all around kicking balls and playing games. When all these white people jumped out, it was like they didn’t know what to do. Most of them flocked to us and just started talking our ears off. I met many of them but couldn’t remember most of their names due to the pronunciation and the number of people I met.
This was Africa Jam. It was an after school program that was designed to give kids another chance and to show them they can do things for themselves. In the townships, many of the children are not allowed to speak to elders unless asked. They are just obedient until they get older. This program tells these children that they can be someone and they have a voice. The idea for us being there was to raise money for them. We got split up in groups of 4 (Me, Dan, Anna, and Tiffany) and each group got 2 kids. Bonga and Vooya were our chosen tour leaders. From there we got a personal tour of their lives. They showed us where their school was, where they lived, let us meet their mother and all the places they shop and play. I have never met happier people in all my life.
Bonga was 16 even though he looked like he was about 13 (my guess is due to malnutrition) he was a happy guy but fairly quiet. I feel that he is one of the smarter guys because when he did speak, it was evident that he knew what he was talking about. He showed us his house which was very small and said that 8 people live in there. I asked him to take a picture in front of it and he seemed very proud of where he was from. No one was home and he said the doors were locked until his dad got home. So basically after school, he had to go to Africa Jam and hang out until his father got home.
Vooya was out of control. This kid was the epitome of ADD. He had so much energy and talked a mile a minute. He was very talented in his acrobatics that he had obviously practiced. He was constantly running and doing back flips and twisting off anything he could find. We got to see more of his life than Bonga because he ran around so much finding people for us to meet. We went to his house, met his uncle, a local rapper, his mother, and his brother. His brother was about 6 months old and his mother was just hanging outside the house as we walked by. She was an extremely nice woman but didn’t seem to want to talk to us much. They were also waiting for the father to get home to let them into the house. I though this was weird that everyone waited for the father to get home to be allowed into the house considering it seemed that women were the caretakers of the children and the keeps of the house, but they didn’t have a key to it. The funny thing about Vooya was that he could never finish a sentence, he would get started then run off mid sentence to find something for us to look at and usually Bonga would finish for him. They were a great pair and complimented each other very well. Vooya was 14 and they said they had been best friends for almost 10 years.
After our hour was up and I had successfully beat them in 2 foot races to the park, we had to go back to the conference center (which was the shack stated before). We asked them where they liked to play and the shack was the place to be. We realized how true this was when we got back and realized that the primary school had also gotten out while we were out in the township and there were children everywhere out and about playing. Whether it be playing soccer, just running around screaming, or playing games that required singing, they were all there and having a good time. Then I made the mistake of pulling my camera out. They swarmed like flies and couldn’t believe it took their picture. Our tour guide told us that some of them had never seen a digital picture of themselves before so it was not uncommon for them to swarm to a camera and get in so they can see themselves. I enjoyed it and they made my day more than they know it even though I guess I made their day too bay taking their pictures.
Finally, we had to go into the shack and most of the kids had to stay outside. We sang songs, danced, and told stories about what life was like in the townships. We played silly games similar to Simon says but they were fun to laugh at one another and break down the comfort zones. We were then told to get together in our group and we had to act out our tour guides. So the 4 of us had to act out Bonga and Vooya as a way to show appreciation for what they just did for us. We were excited but didn’t want them to know how bad of actors we were. We came back in and they all had a choreographed dance prepared for us that was planned by an 11 year old girl. Then they had poetry read that they wrote which was extremely powerful. This was reinforcing how Africa Jam was extremely interested in making sure the kids know they have a voice when they are there and that they can do anything they put their minds to. It didn’t matter how old they were, they could do something and they had a say.
The day was finished with Anthony having a dance off with a guy that called himself Biance. It was hilarious because both are your flamboyant gay personalities and they were flaunting every bit of style they had to show the other one up. I would say the victor was Biance but Anthony put up one hell of a fight. It was fun to watch more than anything and I don’t think it really mattered who won. The videos are something I will laugh at every time I see them.
Leaving the township, there was a general feeling that we could have done so much more. We drove away to see the swarms of men coming over the bridge and back home after a day of work. Most of them were walking home from who knows how far away. It really put things into perspective.
We left the poorest conditions that I have ever been in and went to Camp’s Bay to one of the most luxurious places I had ever been. It was the full 180 from where we were but we were going to someone’s house for Africa Jam Dinner. This was unique to the one day that we went and every other Africa Jam would have stopped after the township but our purpose there was to help raise money for the program. Ellen, the director of the program, had the house that was roughly $3 million dollars. It was on the ocean with a view of Table Mountain in the background. It would not have been a tough place to live. It wasn’t Ellen’s house but someone she knew and they were just using the house for the dinner. There was a live band there (get it Africa JAM) composed of all people that are from or grew up in the township. Ellen’s husband was from there and Quentin was very talented on the piano and vocals. Ellen was just the regular well off kid from the United States that decided to come here about 9 years ago and live in the townships. Coming from Minnesota, she was hit with culture shock and realized that something had to be done. They started Africa Jam as an after school non-profit organization to help children learn how to grow into adults and think for themselves. She was truly an extraordinary woman.
There was wine, cheese, and fantastic food all around. I thought that I would somehow like wine, being in South Africa, but I still think it tastes horrible and stuck to the orange juice. On a side note, to all those that thought I might be able to send wine home for later purposes, a good bottle of wine was about $20 (something you would pay $300 for at home) but to send it to the united states, it was going to be about $100 per bottle. Not worth it if you ask me, especially considering I don’t even like wine.
Something I took away more than anything from Africa Jam was how empowering and humbling it was to see all that I did. These people had nothing, and to them they weren’t missing out on a thing. Africa Jam was over, we had 1 day left in South Africa, and I had a decision to make: to sleep or to go out?

Pizza and Jamming with the Boys

Originally the idea behind going out with the boys was for the girls and not for us, go figure. Dan and I were used to getting the shaft based on the fact that we weren’t South African, we didn’t sing, we didn’t play instruments, we didn’t have a car, and we didn’t have accents. We had everything going against us but we went along for the ride anyway.
The original plan was to go to the beach and light some candles and jam out on harmonicas and guitars. Basically just to woo the girls one more time, as if they needed to. The winds were too harsh so we decided to just go back to their house and order pizza. I was excited because they even made us a homemade chocolate cake. So cake and pizza… sign me up.
The pizza was good, the cider was better. Dan and I had a 6 pack race and I won because that’s what I do but the cider is like drinking 3.2 beer so it was more for the sake of needing something to do as the girls ignored us and the boys weren’t worth competing over for their attention. I had a great time just listening to the music and chilling with Dan. Once Sean gave me a drum and told me to sing a little. I was all for it. Why not make an ass of myself? Now any of you that know me know about my rhythm problems and well the singing voice isn’t up to par either. But the question remained… could I drum and sing? Yes I can. This didn’t last long because I annoyed some of the girls because apparently I wasn’t up to their standards. The boys loved it, which to me was all that mattered. They didn’t care about how good you were as much as they wanted you to feel the music and have a good time. They knew we were being thrown aside and I respected them more for trying constantly to pull Dan and me in and not letting the girls completely control their attention. We were their friends too, damn it.
The girls were falling way too fast and for the most part, I just sat back and laughed because we all knew it would be ending shortly and they would be sad and I could give them the “I told you so” speech all over again. The race back to the ship was fun as always. I was with Dylan and while he may be the better driver, he never seems to know where he is going so we got lost a lot, which is fun. I can’t blame him, he just moved here from Durbin. We lost but gave the effort anyway. 4 days down… 2 to go.

Cape Point and the Masturbating Baboon

When looking at pictures of Nick Thomas’s from last year, I realized that one of the places I wanted to go here was Cape Point. Pictures look amazing and there are penguins too so I figured it was a must see. The problem was most people were still on Safari, so I felt like I had no friends and the others had already been there. I found Victor, Katie, Bri, Blake, Brandon, and Brian to go with me. I really only knew Victor and Brian before going but it was fun none the less. This wasn’t about going with other people; it was more about seeing the sights and working on getting a better understanding of the world.
We took a train, which was a hassle in the first place, to Simonstown. Getting to the train was hard because we had to go on a scavenger hunt all over the city to find the train station but considering a round trip ticket was about $3.50 for riding on a train for 2 hours, we couldn’t turn it down. The cool thing was we got to see the country more as we trucked along the coast of the Indian Ocean. This was the first view of the Indian Ocean and it was almost a different color altogether. Bigger waves than I had ever seen and more little villages on mountain sides than I thought were imaginable.
We pulled up to Simonstown and had no idea where to go. We just knew we were hungry and found a small shop that sold sandwiches and drinks. I got a chicken, cheese, and pineapple sandwich, fries, with a huge water for about $3 total. We found out that pretty much the only place to get to the point was by taxi called Rikis. All 7 of us piled into a van that was smaller than most American cars and we started winding up and down towards the Cape of Good Hope.
On the way there, I saw something that was priceless. Now its not that I see too many monkeys on my average day, but I got to see my first baboon and I saw him in finest style. There we were just hanging out, packed in like sardines into a van when the van driver slams on the brakes and jerks off the road. We thought it was all over, but it was just a baboon chilling out on the side of the road. He was sitting there on the white line and as you might not expect, he was masturbating. It would have been one thing had it just been touching himself but it seemed like he was getting more pleasure in knowing that people were watching him. As soon as someone stopped, he went faster and faster until he got the money shot that he wanted. And just like humans, the end result was the same! Lucky me, I got a picture of him dripping, and then even better, I got a picture of him eating it not long after. It was one of the coolest and funniest things I had ever seen. Victor got a video of the entire thing. It’s amazing. We came to the realization that there is a fine line between hilarious and disgusting… and this was hilarious.
Now before we got to the Cape of Good Hope, there was still more fun to be had. While the taxi driver wasn’t really up for much conversation but he did certainly know where to stop and what to make us look at. But he said he goes there 5 times a day so there aren’t too many things that change probably.
What was that fun you may ask? Well we saw ostriches! I wanted to ride one and tried to chase it but those little bastards are fast. We were about 40 meters from the water seeing huge waves of the Atlantic crashing down on the rocks and then ostriches right in front of us. Tough life. These were cool; but once again, just animals and I had some other stuff to see.
The Cape of Good Hope is the most South-Western point of the African Continent. I have a picture by the sign that says so and its latitude and longitude of the site. It’s beautiful and the waves are pretty big with even bigger rocks for the water to crash down on. Lots of kelp on the shore with bugs galore all over it. The water was freezing so I didn’t even plan on getting in. It was just one of those spots that you had to see to believe its beauty. This was short lived though because our taxi driver only gave us 10 minutes at this spot because we still had to go further into the park to Cape Point. The reason we came here for in the first place.
Cape Point is higher than the Cape of Good Hope but slight more east. While driving up to Cape Point, you can see the Cape of Good Hope and the beaches get whiter and whiter the higher up you go. We pull up to Cape Point and we realize we actually have to get out on hike to the top of the hill. On the hill, there is a huge light house that serves as the tip of the Cape. The view from here was breathtaking. It took about 25 minutes to walk up to the top of the light house and at the top there was a sign that showed how far away the world’s major cities were and the direction they were from where I was in the world. It’s crazy to think I was over 7,000 miles away from New York City.
So there I was, a world away at the point where the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean comes together. Known as one of the windiest places in the entire world due to all the currents coming together at the same time, I was taken back. The water was so blue all around. It’s a shame that some people didn’t get to see this due to Safari or other useless things they found to do while in South Africa.
We had to rush back to the van not too long after going up but we didn’t feel rushed up there, just rushed as we ran down the trail to the van. We had to catch the train to make it back to Cape Town so I could meet back up with Sean and Dylan for another night of fun.
On the way back, the fun never ended. I fell asleep for a little while but still got to laugh at Victor and Brandon making fools of themselves. The spectacle of the ride back happened to Katie. We stop about ever 30 seconds for another train stop or so it seems, and we stop so much you almost forget people are getting on or off. We get on at the last stop and get off at the first one so it’s not that hard to ride the train. I figure this is a good thing because us stupid Americans would probably screw it up otherwise. But to get back to the point. We were at a stop, when this guy sticks his head in the door as it opened, looks right at Katie and asks her quite politely, “would you like to have sex with me? I would like to have sex with you.” Then the door shut and we were on our way. That was it. Random: yes. Awkward: yes. Hilarious: you damn right.

Music at the River Club

After getting back from Robben Island, I just really wanted to sit around and do nothing. I didn’t want to go out and get crazy but instead I was kind of content with myself and just needed some time to reflect on what I had seen at the prison. However, there was no time for this. I got back on the ship and sure enough there was Team Dance. I hadn’t seen her for a few days and she said we were going to watch some live music and some drum circle.
What we got was much more than music. We met these cool guys that were from South Africa and were struggling musicians just finishing up with college. Sean and Dylan were musicians and Sean and Mike were sound engineers. They all lived together and were just chill guys that liked to make fun of our accents and tell us about South Africa. They drove us all over the city and never once asked for any money. We refused to let them pay for food anywhere we stopped, but considering how much we drove around, I think we got the better end of the deal. The music at the River Club was amazing. We paid about $2 to get into the concert and it was 5 sets that we got to hear. The best was the headliner, Tait. They remind me somewhat of Mae and I liked them a lot. They were really cool and gave away free CDs at the end of their show. The guy that played third was from the UK and he was a solo pianist. Jo Robbins had a soft voice and could play piano like it was his job.
From the River Club we decided to go to another bar to play pool and close down the place. As expected, upon arrival, I went straight to the locals and found some really cool guys that I cant pronounce their names but we talked about pool and the differences between the US and South Africa. They were really interesting because they were black but extremely educated which is rarer than you would think in this country. The night finished with us making fun of all the girls clinging to one of the South African guys while Dan and I just tried to keep Anna from biting everyone in the bar. You know how she gets sometimes. Learned some new trick shots in pool and left “The Shack” sometime around 3am. It was a good night and South Africa was barely half way over.

Robben Island

Robben Island is an island off the coast of Cape Town that was originally a place to send Lepers back in the day. Starting in 1960, they made it into a prison for political prisoners of the Apartheid. Basically anyone that was black or coloured that disagreed with the political system in place was sent here with no trial and no warning. Most people had no idea where they were going or how long they would be there. Nelson Mandela was sent there in 1963 on a life sentence for being the leader of the African National Conference. He spent 27 years in prison before being released in 1990. He later became the first president of the new democracy. He went from prisoner to president in a matter of 4 years.
Most people when they think of Robben Island or hear of it think that it will be something like Alcatraz. I may have never been there but I don’t think its anything like that. I was surprised to see that the Island had a large amount of wildlife just prancing around. We got into a bus after the 40 minute fairy ride and went around the island and got to hear a little bit about the history of the island. It was hard to believe a place so beautiful with so many animals, houses, and lighthouses were also the place of a prison that held people for no good reason besides disagreeing with politics.
When we finally got into the prison, I was surprised to see how small it was compared to the size of the island.
We were taken to cell B5 which was Nelson Mandela’s cell for the 18 years that he spent on Robben Island. The neat thing is that your tour guide on the island is always an ex-prisoner, so it’s nice to have that side of the story. The time flew by inside this place and it was weird to be there for a tour when just less than 20 years ago it was the place of torture and dehumanization that many of us cant comprehend.
One of the most interesting things about this was how the museum was not set up to be a remembrance of the suffering of the cause. Instead it was set up to show the struggle of the black people and how this museum symbolized the human spirit and courage to fight for what was right. Bad things may have happened, but no one there was bitter at any white person for the harm done.
Our tour guide’s name was Sparks and he was in the F section. We sat in his cell that was about 60 feet by 25 feet that had 1 toilet, 1 shower, and it held 80 men. He was there for 7 years. Kind of hard to believe considering how hard it must have been to come back to the place that stole your life away for 7 years every day. He was as happy as ever to tell his story despite how hard it must have been.
I was supposed to be asking questions for a class of mine but I felt the need to just stay quiet and take all of it in. It was a somber place and I wish I could have spent more time going into the cells and reading about the individual prisoners that inhabited those cells.
If Robben Island did anything to me, it helped me better understand that I had to go to a township even more. I had to see how things still were. I was sick and tired of living the privileged life in Cape Town where black people were hard to find and white people were the majority. I was in Africa, and I was having trouble finding what I would consider Africans. I saw this as a problem.

South Africa... Day 3

Being that I didn’t get to sleep until very late the night before, I didn’t really get up until lunch time the next day. I had lunch with Roberto and we realized that no one was really left on the ship. Everyone was gone on safari. I didn’t want to pay all that money to go off and see a bunch of animals. I’m sure that the animals were cool and all but I didn’t see the reason to pay so much money to see animals for so many days. I would prefer people 100 times over before animals.
Roberto and I finally got moving a little after 1 and we decided to walk back to Long St. and find some trouble. We walked around and just chatted it up for awhile on how he was missing Puerto Rico and how he went to the township the day before. The townships were something I knew I had to do but didn’t want to pay Semester at Sea to go. I am pretty adamant about not paying for a trip through Semester at Sea because I’m all about not putting money onto my student account. Erin… the last account balance was $4 after a month on the ship. Most people’s were in the hundreds of dollars. I don’t know how they do it but I suppose that their parents are paying for it and they don’t have to worry about small fees like a few hundred dollars of account balances.
Roberto and I stumbled across the Cape Town Museum and we decided to check it out for a small fee of R10 (about $1.40). While most of the museum was about animals and the history of dinosaurs and water animals and such, there was one display of the history of South Africa in pictures. This was cool because it showed pictures of many of the world leaders that had come to South Africa and things that had happened in the past. South Africa has history but the fascinating thing is it is so new. The Apartheid Regime of segregation only ended in 1994. We have been a free country for so long but for over half of the people in South Africa (all coloured and black people), they just got to vote for the first time in 94. Just another one of those things we take for granted.
The cool thing was we got to see pictures of what they call the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC). This was a big thing that got people together to tell all about the wrongdoings of the Apartheid. Instead of pretending to forget about it all, the South Africans decided to put it all out there in the open and get the truth on the table. It was nice to learn about this in pictures because we had learned a little about it in classes, but it never really does do it justice more than when you are actually there and you can learn from it in person from people that actually experienced it. Archbishop Desmond Tutu talked to us the day before about the Apartheid and what life was like before and after. He was the Chair for the TRC, so it was interesting to see all that he had to sit through and listen despite being such a happy go lucky kind of guy. You would never think that someone of his character would have experienced so much hardship and been happy to tell about it.
Roberto was to go to Robben Island that day so we had to go back but we made sure to walk through the community gardens on the way back. The rose gardens were in full bloom and the roses were of every color. It was something I said I wanted to come back to and take more pictures but I never seemed to get around to it. I had no idea how busy the next few days would become.
I went back to the ship for dinner after dropping off Roberto to go to Robben Island and I bought a ticket for myself and Hanaan to go the next morning. I wasn’t sure what I was going to be doing that night because I was extremely tired and didn’t want to go out and get crazy all over again.
I met up with Sara and some others from the first day and we decided to go see a movie. We saw the Last King of Scotland. This was a movie that was extremely good and I highly recommend it for anyone who hasn’t seen it. It was far from what I expected but I had never seen a preview for it so I just went with it. It’s another one of those stories that Americans never hear about because when it happened we were too busy worrying about something else that could benefit us in the long term. The lonely country of Uganda was not something we could profit from, so as expected, we didn’t do anything to help the 500,000 people that were killed.
After the movie, I was all for going back to the ship but was talked into going into a local bar called Mitchell’s. I had heard from 2 different locals (a taxi driver and a waiter at a different restaurant) to go there and try the cider. Now I have had cider in the States and thought it was more disgusting than beer but the cider at this place was amazing. It was brewed right there in the store. It reminded me of a place like CB & Potts where it was just a good time to hang out and have a few drinks before going home. It was far from a place that you go to get trashed. I enjoyed the conversation with people I really didn’t know all too well and went back to the ship for an early bedtime. I had Robben Island the next day and I had to be ready to see what was in store for me.

South Africa... Day 2

Second day we decided to try to go to a mall and do some shopping. A taxi driver told us of a place called Century City that had cheap prices and wasn’t too far away. We dediced to take him up on it since it was a short drive and we didn’t have too much else to do being that it was a shitty day and it was raining and very windy.
I thought I had been to some malls in my day, but none of them compared to this place. It was bar none the biggest mall I have ever seen in my entire life. We walked around for about 4 hours and I don’t think we saw half of it.
Now I may have never been to Times Square or anything but this place’s food court gave Times Square a run for its money. It was 3 stories high and full of restaurants including flat screen TVs for as far as the eye can see. It just happened to be the time for us to see what soccer meant to South African people. It was the Liverpool against Manchester United. Now people in the States can sometimes enjoy soccer but this was a new extreme. Like I said it was 3 stories full of hangovers for everyone to be able to see the probably 150 foot wide jumbotron in the middle of the food court. I would guess that at least 2,000 people were there just to watch this game. I don’t mean that there just happened to be 2,000 people sitting there, I mean there were 2,000 people there just to watch that game. People had their faces painted, hair dyed and flags of their team hanging from every level. Most people were Man. United fans and anytime the ball got close to a shot on goal you could feel everyone in that place hold their breathe in anticipation of a goal.
I found this fascinating that on a Saturday afternoon that so many people found it to be the thing to do was to go to a mall and watch a soccer game in the middle of the food court. I’m not someone that gets into soccer all too much but watching them and their passion for the game was something that was admirable either way.
I think one of the most noticeable things about Cape Town was how I felt at home the entire time I was there. Anything that happened was very similar to what I would have imagined it would be like in another city of America. Nick once told me that Cape Town was just like San Francisco and I didn’t believe him, but after 2 days, it was evident that Cape Town seemed to be nothing out of the ordinary from what I was used to.
That night was spent out at the bars again at a place called Cool Runnings with Roberto and Andrea. It was Andrea’s last night before leaving for a safari so we had to paint the town our favorite color before leaving. She didn’t leave until 6am so that meant we had all night to go out, get crazy, and dance until the sun came up.

South Africa... Day 1

Ok well as I have heard far too many complaints about the brasil blog and how long it was, I have decided to break the ports up from now on so that you can read them in increments instead of having to read a 10 page novel about what I did in every country.
So much happened in South Africa that it is almost impossible to remember all that went on.
The first day was spent doing the most random things from shopping to going out but for the most part it was just a chill day that we used to prepare ourselves for how busy we were going to be. More than anything we used it as a way to hang out with all our friends before most of them left for safaris.
I spent most of the afternoon on Long St. which is the place to be during the day and the night. It’s the place where lots of shops and restaurants are as well as more bars than I could count. The Rand (their currency) is seven times weaker than the dollar. This means that for every dollar I would have spent, my dollar got me about 7 times further. This didn’t mean that things that were 1 rand here would cost 1 dollar in the US but it usually meant that most things were cheaper. For example: a beer in the states would be about $3 or so in a bar. That is about 21 Rand. You could get most beers here for about R11. So it was about half the cost. Food in most places was very cheap as well. At most places, you could have drinks, appetizer, and a meal for under $10 (USD). The hard part with this was while it was very cheap, there was so much to do that it added up quickly and before you knew it, you had spent a lot of money. So all in all, I spent a lot of money in South Africa, but I would do it all over again in a heart beat and might even spend more if I had the chance. The first thing that is extremely noticeable about South Africa is how nice the people are. This is probably universal but it could have also been the fact that we just showed up in a big blue ship that had a big fat flashing dollar sign that can be seen from the Northern coast of Africa. Everyone knows we are coming, everyone knows where the ship docks and they know more about the ship and things we will want to do than we do. Every cab driver waits for us to come and the sense of anticipation for the arrival of the ship is noticeable from every person you talk to that is trying to make money off of people.

Social Contract Conundrum

After walking around South Africa today I have come to a realization that we have a problem that people need to discuss. In America, we always walk on the right side of the road and we also drive on the right side of the road. Anytime we are coming from opposite directions from another person, each person yields to the right to let the other person pass. This is how things work...

Here is the problem: in other countries, some people walk on the left, and some walk on the right. The right way to walk is not always the "right" of way. Bahamas and South Africa have both driven on the left side of the road and the people seem to be just as confused as I am. There needs to be international law.

I dont know if everyone should walk on the right side, the left side, or with however the accepted side of the way you drive on but we need some resolution here. I'm tired of dancing back and forth with people in awkward situations that no one seems to know the answer to which side we should yield to.

I think Im gonna stick with the right way. I just wish I knew which way the right way was?

Neptune Day

We had waited for so long to see what the great Neptune Day would share with us. I had heard all about it from friends about how it was and what happened but it is one of those things that experience is the only way to understand.
When crossing the equator, it is customary to pay homage to King Neptune (the God of the seas). When you are a regular land dweller as all of us were, you are considered by most to be a tadpole. Just a small creature that is not worthy of open waters. However, when you cross the equator, it is the way of the sea to be introduced to the King of the Seas and grow as a person to be more accepted by the sea.
The best thing about Neptune Day was there was no class. This might have meant that we got to sleep in, but we could not be this lucky. Instead we were awoken at 8am to the beating of drums and the crew screaming and chanting in the halls as they traversed the ship waking everyone up. I heard them, rolled over, looked at Zander and said, “It has begun.”
I then got up to get some breakfast before the festivities began at 9am. Now you will notice that we are a bit late when it comes to celebrating crossing the equator since we did it before Brazil but we are actually attending class after all and the administration couldn’t let on right away that we have some fun on this ship. I think it was important for us to go to Brazil first so that we understood what kind of things were expected of us in the classroom before they started giving us days off.
Once on deck 7, at 9am, the fun really began. People were everywhere around the pool and we were waiting for instruction. Then we heard the drums again. They were followed by a procession of faculty and finally King Neptune, who happened to be Captain Jeremy. King Neptune was painted green and sat in his royal chair by the pool. In order to go from tadpole to hard-shell, you had to pass the test. This test including getting in the line to have fish guts/rotten milk/oatmeal or something that was disgusting poured on your head. It smelled horrible but then we were instructed to jump into the pool. I had never been in the pool and had no idea that it was actually sea water so the salt hit me and made the nastiness of the fish guts stuff even worse. I was lucky enough to be one of the first 10 people or so to jump in. Not long after the water became close to milk and the longer people waited the worse off it became.
Upon getting out of the pool, we all got to make out. And by make out, I mean kiss a horrid smelling fish. One kiss for each of the two fish, and it wasn’t pleasant. Then you are in front of King Neptune and you have to make the decision to kiss his ring or not. If you do not kiss the ring, you get pushed back into the pool and the voyage starts anew. I felt the need to kiss a little more ass so I actually got on my hands and knees and bowed to him, then kissed his ring. Dean Mike was standing there to turn me from my inferior tadpole status into something that granted some respect as a hard-shell.
This seems like a great day already, but it had really just begun. The next tradition of Neptune Day is people shaving their heads. This was no big deal for me and I had been waiting for the day to lose my hair a long time because it was so long. The big challenge was to find out how many women were going to do it. I was surprised to find out that 37 women shaved their heads to supposedly set some kind of record for Semester at Sea. I feel that the number is actually higher but some only Mohawk their hair 2 days before and didn’t partake in the festivities of Neptune Day. Needless to say, our shipboard community looks like a bunch of skin heads walking around the ship rubbing each other’s heads all the time.
I decided that shaving it wasn’t enough and that I should do something different since I have shaved my head so many times in the past. I decided to go a bit further and actually shaved it with a razor. I bic-ed it as some were saying. It felt great and was a lot of fun although it was gone the next day and back to stubble. I find it awkward that my hair on my head still grows faster than my face. Someday I’ll go through puberty and become a big boy. That day was not today, and tomorrow isn’t looking good either.
The rest of the day was spent catching up in reading and homework and just trying to relax as much as possible. It was amazing to actually be able to do nothing for once. Not having weekends on the ship make relaxation hard because there never ever seems to be a break. Technically, our breaks are in port. However, anyone that knows anything about semester at sea realizes that we sleep as little as possible while in port so that we can eat up the country and soak in as much as possible. I look forward to more days with no classes, even though I do not know for certain if there will ever be another. If I have any suggestion it is to give us a day off and if there is anything planned that they make it after lunch so we can all enjoy a day to just sleep in. Everyone can do it; there will be no demands from anyone on the ship. This means you too Dean Mike, you too Captain Jeremy, and even you Archbishop Tutu. We might not deserve a break, but 23 days are hard on the body and a day to sleep the day away sounds like a fascinating day.

All hail King Neptune

I want to go back to Bahia, Brasil

Well here it is. The Brazil blog. I must warn you before you begin reading that this will be extremely long, but it is the story of the greatest 5 days of my young life.

It all began when we got off the ship and knew we had to be on the bus right away for our 6 hour bus ride to Lencois. Lencois is still in Bahia, which is basically a state of Brasil. And for clarification it’s not Brazil anymore, it’s Brasil because that’s how they spell it and I think they would know better than we would. I got off the ship and started coming down the gangway to a thunder of drums and dancing right away. It was the first day of Carnival but that had nothing to do with what was going on. These people were dancing and playing music as a welcome to us. As you can imagine when a ship full of 1,000 people pull into a poor place, we pour money into the economy and they are very grateful. We think we are getting a great deal but they think it is a blessing to have so many people willing to spend money in their country.
On the trip to Lencois, I sat up front with Andrea and had the opportunity to see out the front window and talk to Daniel, our beloved tour guide. As we drove through Salvador on our way west to Lencois, the only thing I could look at were the hill sides. Hill sides not because they are green and lush with vegetation. I couldn’t fathom the amount of absolute poverty that I was witnessing. We were told that Brasil has one of the largest degrees of inequality in the entire world but I don’t think I believed it until I saw the favellas. Favellas are what we would call the projects but instead of being buildings that resemble run down apartments, they are literally shacks piled on top of one another so that people can fit into the space provided. I started talking to Daniel about them and he spoke of how crime didn’t really occur too much within the favellas, but that is where the crime came from. The children were the biggest threat to crime because many of them were just trying to eat. Daniel said that they did not steal from each other because they knew that they didn’t have anything but would usually go into the city and rob other people so that they could eat. Police do not go into the favellas because they are not safe for outsiders to go into. There are no streets in many of the areas so it’s a matter of walking anywhere you have to go. The crazy thing, as I continue to mention time and time again, was how Daniel only talked about how happy these people were to be alive. Murder happens often and the fact that people are still alive was enough to crack a smile. This might not be entirely true for all people in the favellas but it does show to some extent why crime is so rampant. It has nothing to do with them being bad people. It lies in the root of the poverty in the first place. It’s the constant battle of have’s and have not’s. The people in the favellas do not have much. They want to survive, and the only way possible for them to meet their basic needs many times is theft and crime. I don’t see this as a bad thing. Think about what you would do if you were a starving child and your baby sister was dying due to malnourishment, what are you going to do? You are going to do whatever is possible to save yourself and those in your family. It doesn’t matter how many people you supposedly hurt because you are busy looking out for your own. When no one on the planet seems to care about you, eventually you have to take it upon yourself to get the job done. For people in the favellas, many times crime is the only option. I do not blame them. I blame the system for letting them go without and leaving crime as the only way to see another day.
Once out of Salvador, we got on 2 lane highway that looked more like any poorly paved road. There were many places to pull off for no particular reason and it was very common to see someone in the middle of nowhere with a fruit stand trying to make a few dollars from the people driving by. It was not uncommon to see someone riding a bike either and then you had to think about the fact there was nothing in front of you or behind you for an hour of driving. Gas there is roughly $5 a gallon and extremely expensive. It is a luxury of the rich in most parts of Bahia and Daniel said that a very large part of the costs of our trip were just gas for transportation. The road was asphalt, which was relatively smooth in most parts but Daniel talked all about how stupid this was. The asphalt wears down in a matter of 5 years or so and then needs to be replaces. Concrete is slightly more expensive but it lasts for 30 years. The cost benefit in this makes it very easy to see that in the long run, the investment of the concrete would be wise. The problem is the politicians are so hard up for funding and money that they will always take the easy way out because they are only in office for a matter of 4 years. They have no reason to “waste” all the money during their term. They have other things on their agenda than using all the money in the budget on a concrete road that would save them millions of dollars over a 30 year period.
We finally stopped to get lunch after about 4 hours. We were told not to eat lettuce or anything that was washed over with water to protect ourselves from traveler’s diarrhea. I didn’t really care about that and figured if it happened, that it was just part of the experience. I was shocked to find that most restaurants there are pay by grams. Basically it is set up like a buffet where you go through and find what you want to eat. Then at the end of the line there is a woman that weighs your plate and writes it on a ticket. Depending on how much food you put on your plate says how much money you will pay when you are finished. Most people really liked this, but I however, did not. I’m a fan of getting my money’s worth and in this case, they were getting their food’s worth. But once again, I have no reason to complain because I was completely full and only spend around $4 in dollars for a decent meal.
When we got back on the bus, we continued our discussion about Brasil with Daniel. The few that could hear him were amazed by his obvious passion for life. He is what I would call the absolute epitome of a hippy in everyway. I loved him. He is your cheesy, at peace with the earth, and at peace with himself kind of guy. He was very knowledgeable about everything we asked. He went to Santa Monica College in the States for college and talked about how he didn’t want to do business once he got back to Brasil. He realized how much we were polluting the earth and how horrible people can be. He knew that Brasil was one of the most beautiful places in the world and wanted to share that with people without destroying it. Eco-tourism was his calling. I don’t think there could be a more perfect job for a man of his character.
We arrived in Lencois and met another tour guide named Kikiu (pronounced kee kee u). He was 31 and this guy has more fun than anyone I have ever met. He loved life. There is no better way to explain it. He didn’t sleep, and always had a smile on his face. His laugh was extremely contagious and he became one of us immediately.
Our group consisted of 23 people that we split up in 2 groups. My group got Daniel for the entire trip and I truly feel sorry for the other group because they missed out on how great he was and how amazing he made the trip just by being there. We used the company Biosfera Brasil and we didn’t know this but they are relatively new to the business. We were the first large group trip they had ever done and it was the first time Daniel ever got to go with anyone because he is usually in the office planning small trips for people. Being that it was the week of Carnival, everyone has the week off from work so he was able to grace us with his presence.
The night we arrived we walked to a place to meet up with a local NGO that liked to help spread peace and culture throughout Brasil and all of South America. We walked through the rain to get there and showed up completely soaked and tired from a 6 hour bus ride. There was no time to waste though. We showed up to a circle of people dancing and we were immediately in there going crazy. This was the introduction to our new favorite song “Mama Afrika” that we sang the rest of the trip and still sing all the time just to remember the trip despite the fact that hardly any of us actually know the words. We got out of the rain, sang songs, and danced. Hardly any of them spoke English but Daniel was the official translator and helped us to communicate with anyone we wanted to talk to. The dances they taught us were all simple and childish but perfect for getting us to lighten up. My favorite was about a snake that was up on a mountain looking for its tail. We were the tail. Basically it created a conga line that picked one person at a time and that person had to crawl under the legs of everyone in the line to become the tail. Eventually all 50 people in the room became one very large tail. This took a lot of crawling around on the ground and getting dirty but that was the last thing on my mind at the time.
Dancing was followed by a discussion where we got to ask questions to them and they asked us questions about what we do back home and what kind of NGOs we knew of. They were all as fascinated in our lives as we were theirs. They asked questions about American politics and our policies on how we treated other countries. They were not large fans of Bush and said that most Americans seem selfish and only interested in things that concern their own well being. Luckily, they said that by the way we came into their group and had a good time dancing and talking that we were rewriting these stereotypes for the better. One thing to mention is Lencois is not an extremely rich town. It is basically in the middle of nowhere and is full of culture but not a lot of money. All the streets are cobblestone and very narrow. Not narrow like those of Puerto Rico for looks but narrow for the reason that they probably didn’t have much money to make the roads in the first place. Most people walked everywhere anyway so unless you were leaving the town, you had no reason to need any transportation. Already, here we were, it was the first night, hardly any of our adventure had begun, and I was completely taken away by these brasilian people and the love they had for life. I was amazed by this country already and it was just beginning.
Our group of Andrea, Dave, Bennett, Matt, Alex G, Tina, Tiffany, Liz, Roberto, Kim, Brenna, and myself had the opportunity to start off with the not so hard hike to the caves. We woke up a little later than the other group that was going to the fumasa falls and got to walk from the hotel to where we were going. Our hotel was not really much of a hotel as much as it was a very cozy bed and breakfast at the top of the town. It overlooked the entire town and was very quiet. It was small so for the most part, our group took over all the rooms and we ran the place. It wasn’t some cheap crap hotel that I wouldn’t have minded staying at. It wasn’t paradise either though. It was perfect for the kind of trip we were going on that we would be supporting a local man by staying in his house turned hotel.
We were supposed to leave around 8:30am but realized very quickly that brasilians are very fashionably late to everything. We were told that is normal for things to happen an hour later than planned. This held true the entire trip, but it was nothing to get frustrated about because everything always worked out regardless of what we were doing. We finally got to walking around 9:15am and didn’t really know where we were going. We finally got to a place that we realized we were officially in the middle of nowhere. We couldn’t see any civilization of any kind and it was so peaceful to be alone. The trails we were walking in were not so much trails as much as they were streams that didn’t have much water in them. It was not something for people afraid of getting their feet wet. If not for Kikiu and the other guide, we would have never found our way back. Everywhere you looked was worthy of taking a picture.
The caves were somewhat hidden in the midst of green leaves and moist temperatures (yes, Cody… moist). It was actually quite open where we didn’t really have to kneel or anything the entire way. I have no idea how people can go in there all the time because I can easily see myself getting lost. Kikiu said that 2 guys came into the came on New Years and never made it out. They were stuck in the cave for 2 days before they found a way out. I figured that this meant we should stay with them. I didn’t think it was too hard to walk around within the caves. It was really fun actually. But fun was not the best part of the caves. It was the peace. It was Daniel.
We finally came to a point in the caves where we could hear water. When we came to the river, the water was not very strong. It was very calm actually and only about a foot deep in most places. The deepest part came up to my waist and we got in to get wet for a bit. Now keep in mind that the only source of light is 2 lanterns that the tour guides are carrying. We were kind of tired of messing around in the water and were ready to move along but Daniel said we had to do “an experience.”
We all sat down in the water in a circle. We were instructed to hold hands with left hand on top and the right hand on bottom. This created a circle of energy between all of us. Daniel told us to just concentrate on the silence of the water. The lights were turned out and even with your eyes open you could see absolutely nothing. Darkness. Now this was very cheesy but nothing was more perfect for the moment. Daniel told us to just breathe deeply and be at one with ourselves. Concentrate on something that was troubling us and when we breathe the energy in from the earth that we should embrace that energy and welcome it. While still concentrating on the problem, we should exhale and let the river take the problem away. After this we continued to hold hands and just take a deep breath and humm 3 long times until our breath was gone. Silence followed for a few minutes until we all just kind of came to from the peaceful trance we were in. It might sound stupid now but being there in that cave with those people was something that was priceless. Finally the lights were turned back on and we were to continue the hike in the caves, but the group dynamic changed after that point and we were more of a tribe than a bunch of individuals.
Not long after, we came to the end of the cave. The light from the exit of the cave was blinding and then we knew it was time for the peace to end and the chaos to begin. We sat around and ate lunch from inside the cave as rains poured down outside. It was time to climb up on the edge of the cliff and jump off. We needed people to volunteer to bungee jump and rappel first. Bungee was supposed to go by weight and technically, I was supposed to go 3rd. I decided to rappel first since no one wanted to do that and I felt that after bungee jumping that rappelling would be a disappointment. It was pretty fun. The best part was the instructor was telling us all the safety information but I don’t know if he didn’t realize that we didn’t speak Portuguese. I knew the basics and just agreed with him and right before I went, Daniel came running over and made sure that I knew the safety stuff in English. It was about 130 feet down that we rappelled into. It was a good time but bungee jumping was the focal point of everyone’s attention so no one even saw me come down through the hole in the cave. The cool part was while I was dropping down, I got the watch Matt, my fellow Cincinnatian, be the first bungee jumper. It looked like a lot of fun and I was immediately excited to do it.
When I got to the point down below where everyone was watching Matt was just getting untied and he was shaking and said that it was one of the best things he has ever done, along with some other expletive words, and that he didn’t need to do it again. I just said WHO DEY and was even more ready to make the jump.
Bennett was second and he nearly chickened out. He is the 6’3” German that lives in Italy and thinks he is God’s gift to women. He might be very attractive but if he wouldn’t have jumped, I doubt anyone would have talked to him. Bennett was one of my roommates at the lodge and while he comes off as a pompous asshole at first, I truly love this guy and he makes me laugh often.
I finally made the walk all the way up the hill again to see the jump sight. I don’t know what I was planning on seeing but I think I expected to see some kind of shack or something that said bungee jumping. It didn’t. It was basically just a bunch of ropes tied into the ground and those ropes were supposed to be attached to my feet before I jumped off a cliff. No big deal. Andrea went 3rd and I thought I would wait my turn. After Andrea went, they told me it was my turn because of my weight and the heavier people need to go earlier because the ropes stretch more as the jumps go on.
The funny thing is you can’t really see where you are jumping. You just jump and hope the rope catches you. Matt’s dad told him a piece of advice: “don’t jump off a 90 foot cliff with a 100 foot rope.” I thought this was good advice. They tied me up, brought me to the point and told me to count down and jump. 3... 2… 1… BUNGEE!
It was pretty fun to see how fast you fall the second you jump. The rope ran out before I knew it and the bouncing began. I was surprised to see how fast the bouncing ended and the swinging began. As I’m just swinging back and forth, I screamed in Jenny fashion, “Dear god, make me a bird so I can fly far far far away.” Then you just sit there as the little man came down to relieve me. The blood just kept rushing to my head. It was exhilarating.
Not long after I went, the rains came. Normally we would just go but this was torrential downpour to the point that it was cold in the middle of Brasil. There we were on top of a mountain, on top of the exit of a cave, in the middle of Brasil, mid day, pouring down rain, and we are huddled in a group hug singing “lean on me.”
That night we went out to a steak dinner. I was looking forward to the Brasilian steak house like Fogo de Chao, but it wasn’t that. That didn’t mean that it wasn’t amazing. It was a cut called Picanha. We can not get it in the States, which made me wonder what was in it but I didn’t want to try the Portuguese or English so I just ate it. Wonderful. They brought it out on a small grill. The nice thing was in the beginning it was delicious and rare. The trick was you either had to leave it on your plate and get cold or risk the chance of getting more well done. So either way, regardless of how you like your steak, this place was made for you.
As if this day wasn’t long enough, it was really just beginning. We left the restaurant and got into vans to go to a town about 45 mins away called Palmerias. We were going there for the local Carnival. This was our first taste of Carnival. It was much smaller and only about 10,000 people. There were only 2 stages, 1 on each end of the town. Basically we would party it up and dance at one stage until the Trios Electrico (a big truck with speakers blaring out of it and a band on top playing live music) came by and would go slowly so that everyone could walk behind it and in front of it until we got to the next stage like ½ mile away. I twisted my ankle, but at the state of mind that I was currently in, it didn’t really matter until the next morning. We’d dance and party there then until the truck would come back again. It was a never ending circle of love and dance.
The best part of Carnival and Brasil in general is that there are no expectations whatsoever. Now many of you will agree that I can not dance. I am not one to disagree, but I do try anyway. In Brasil, no matter what I did, no one laughed at me. It was completely ok for me the flail around and make a complete fool of myself. I was at home because everyone else looked exactly the same. Nothing better. We left around 3am because the hiking day started at 8am the next morning but there were no signs of the party letting up.
The next morning, I woke up and realized I could barely walk. No big deal, I just had a black and blue ankle and another 7 miles to hike today. Did that stop me? Hell no. We were on our mission to hike the Fumasa Falls. This is the 2nd highest water fall in the world. To begin this hike, it was basically an hour straight up a mountain. I am not in great shape but not a complete sloth and it was extremely hard to get to the top. Team Bauer (Andrea and I) joined together and just busted it out like it was our job. It was interesting to see the rocks as we climbed because so many people had climbed up this mountain throughout the years that there were foot holes in the rock.
The next 3 hours were consumed by walking through a creek for a very long time. There was no direct trail but as long as you stayed in the creek, you would eventually get to where you needed to go. It has been over a week since the hike and I still can’t get my feet clean. We walked in black mud for the longest of times until we came to a pond of nasty water. What did we do? We walked right through it! It was up to our knee or so and everyone had to do it. It was fascinating how dirty this hike was but even better how no one seemed to care.
When we reached the top, it looked like nothing was there. I could hear the falls but couldn’t see anything. Then I saw the line of people wanting to look over this rock. This was far from something you looked over. You basically had to lie on your stomach and scoot out to the edge of this cliff while someone held your ankles to get a look at the falls. It went forever. The landscape went in all directions and the drop was about 1,200 feet down. It would have been fun to base jump off of. The hike with a bum ankle and 4 blisters on my pruned feet were completely worth it.
The walk back down included more talks with Daniel about how his son of 18 months was the next boy prodigy of the world. I believed him and loved how he was such a dedicated father. I found it interesting that he was already in schooling at 15 months. I don’t know what you would really teach someone that age, but I’m sure it was something about random learning and more brain stimulation than actual learning but I didn’t want to burst Daniel’s bubble.
The challenge was the walk down. With a swollen ankle, it is not so easy to go down hill on a wet rock on an incline. I just took my time and made it down safely, but by the time that I got to the bottom, I had never felt the pain and aching of my feet more in my entire life. They were covered in blisters, my ankle was swollen and I just kicked that mountain’s ass.
All I wanted to do was sleep. Nothing else. My feet hurt, I was tired, and I knew that we weren’t going to get much sleep that night.
The kids from the NGO came back again and we were supposed to dance and sing and have pizza in the hotel. This one a night that I was very tired but I am very happy that I stayed awake for the experience anyway. This was our last night with Daniel because he was flying home to Sal Paulo (his home) to spend the rest of the week with his family. We danced of course and decided to talk some more in a circle. We talked a lot about our expectations of Brasil before we got here and what we think now that we have experienced it.
Most of the SAS kids agreed that we were told to be fearful and cautious when going to Brasil because there is so much crime and robbery, especially during Carnival. We commented on how this was never a problem because everyone in Brasil was so nice to us. Daniel explained this as the problem with tourists and the reason they started their business in the first place.
He explained very passionately that there are two worlds out there in the world. There is the Fear world in which people live in fear and do not know what is going to happen to them. When people are fearful of others, crime happens. If you try to avoid people then you are giving them a reason to mess with you. Then comes the more important world of Love. This balance between the love and fear spheres of the world are what make the difference between happiness and despair. We were living in the Love world, a place where it didn’t matter what country we were from. It didn’t matter what language we spoke. It didn’t matter what color our skin was or how much money we had. We realized that even though our passports said that we were completely different people from all different backgrounds that we had one thing in common: we were all people. Nothing else mattered. Citizenship didn’t matter because we were all citizens of a global world in which we inhabit the same place regardless of where your home may be. Be it United States or Brasil, it’s still on the earth and there is no reason to make differences for this reason.
I am doing a horrible job of explaining how well Daniel said this, but many people in the room were in tears. I will admit that I was slightly misty and had to hold back the tears. It was time for pizza, but before we went down stairs we felt it necessary to show them a dance of our own. We don’t have as many silly and simple dances as they did but we all agreed to teach them the Hokey Pokey. So we put one hand in, we took one hand out, we put one hand in and we shook it all about. They thought it was hilarious and didn’t understand the words, but I think they liked that we were at least trying to share something with them. It was a give and take, we probably gained from them more than they gained from us but in this situation there were no losers. It was a pure win-win situation.
The next morning we were off to see more waterfalls. It was a short day because we had to back on the bus for the 6 hour ride back to Salvador and get ready for Carnival in the place where it all began.
This bus ride may have been the best bonding experience we had the entire trip. The first half we just passed out and basically fell into comas until we stopped for lunch. We ate at the same place and everyone definitely ate more this time that we didn’t care about what the food looked like, how many flies were swarming around, or if it was going to be expensive. We pigged out. Got on the bus and expected to pass out all over again. This never happened.
Some people passed out but most of us decided that since we were on our way to the world’s largest party that we needed to pregame and prepare ourselves for it. Yes, that’s right… we pregamed for the biggest party in the entire world! It wasn’t much but before long we were singing every song we knew and laughing at Bennett for butchering American songs that he didn’t know but tried really hard none the less. This was so much fun, and I have many videos of it to prove all the fun. It was the perfect ending to an amazing experience. The crazy thing was this was only the end of Lencois; we still had Salvador to go.
Carnival was about to begin and this was an experience that is completely different than anything I had ever done before. We had no time to get on and off the ship. We had to wear these shirts called Abadas and get to our Blocco (Blocco’s are those Trios Electricos things again but on a much larger scale with ropes all around and security. If you don’t have the shirt… you don’t get in). We were in Crocodilo. It started at 6:30pm and we thought that it would be over by 11 but it never seemed to end. Long before it started we were standing around the truck waiting for our performer to start playing. Daniella Mercedes was the woman on the stage. This was fun because people would pay money to be in the blocco and basically get a live show from their favorite singer or band all night long.
We were told that Carnival could be extremely dangerous and that we should take nothing valuable. Basically just enough money for drinks and taxi fair home. Everyone was worried about being pick pocketed or mugged so we followed orders. No one brought their camera but I was lucky enough to get a disposable through.
I was pissed to start the night because as we were standing around waiting to begin, we got hit with numerous cans full of urine. Piss all over my face! Andrea got hit with a cigarette on her arm and got burned. There were all people from the outside. It was chaos and I was just making sure I wasn’t going to have to throw down and beat the hell out of someone. Everyone was getting mad and people were talking about leaving even before we started. Then a small boy came up to us and looked sad as can be. He was dirty and barely clothed. He came up to us and whispered, “comida.” This is “food” in Portuguese. Here I was completely pissed off by people throwing pee into our group and trying to calm people down enough not to leave, then this boy is here and looks absolutely pathetic. Pathetic not because of how he was looking or what else was going on, but it was pathetic to see the extremes of a situation in a matter of seconds. I went from being extremely frustrated and pissed off to silence. We had to tell the little boy no, but I don’t think I’ll ever forget him. It’s one thing to tell a bum on the street no when he asks for food or money, but when it’s a small child, you think twice and wonder where his parents are. The sad thing is his parents probably aren’t even around anymore, and there is no place for him to go. He is just another street kid in Brasil that nobody gives two shits about. It was hard to watch him go, but we couldn’t be the start of something that would have started a swarm of people asking for food or money. If they see you give anything to one person, it is assumed you will give it to all. This was interrupted by loud music and people cheering as our signal that Carnival was officially beginning.
Once we started dancing and moving, I realized something. There were virtually no women in our blocco. Our blocco was set up by Daniel and we figured we were getting a great deal because it was slightly less expensive than other bloccos in the festival. Here we were worried about getting robbed and making sure the girls weren’t getting molested when we realized that none of this was happening whatsoever. No one had been touched. In fact, I was the only one that had been slightly bothered and that was someone grabbing my ass from behind that I never saw. Once we found some people that spoke English, we politely asked, “Are all these people gay?” They cheered as they exclaimed this was the most gay friendly blocco in all of Carnival. I thought this was hilarious and something to be learned. Men were making out everywhere. It was completely acceptable and not awkward in anyway. In the States, this would have caused a problem but no one seemed to care. I think this showed even more about the Brasilian culture that it didn’t bother them at all. They were so comfortable with their own skin that other people’s differences never seemed to bother them. I wish people in the United States could be as open to others like this but I don’t see it happening anytime soon. I think it’s interesting that Brasil is considered a developing country and we are one of the most developed countries in the world but in terms of how people treat one another, this poverty torn country blew us away. Goes to show what all those lists really show. We have everything and can’t be happy with anything, they have nothing and they are happy about everything.
That night ended on a good note because after 8 hours of continuous dancing, bumping, grinding, and screaming words to songs you don’t know the words to, you are completely exhausted. In all we realized that we had walked close to probably 25 miles in the past 3 days and we were completely beat. Brasil was almost over, and we were all so sad to see it go.
The next morning I got up for lunch and we walked down to the market to shop around. I didn’t buy much. I was too cheap (go figure). It was fun just to watch people in their own setting and how they reacted, not to mention how some people would try to sell you anything. This one guy pulled me into his shop and tried to get me to buy some hand crafted wooden figurines. They were nice but I didn’t want them. He knew how to say “very beautiful” and he said it over and over and over again. I agreed but still didn’t want it. He wrote down how much he wanted to sell it to me for and I told him that 10 reals (about $5) was too much. I didn’t care if it was free, I didn’t really want it. After I walked in, I noticed he pulled the next person in just like he pulled me in and it cracked me up that this was his tactic to sell things to customers. The “come into my shop” worked for him. It just didn’t work on this cheapskate.
Now KY, if you are reading this, start paying attention. I was in Brasil and there was only one thing I knew I had to do before I got there: Brasilian Steakhouse! Charascaria Boi Preto was its name and it was supposedly the best place in Salvador. It was the same set up as I expected with a yes and no meat, which was always set to “yes.” I can’t say that it was that much better than Fogo De Chao that I had in Dallas last year but the salad bar was better. They had a sushi bar and everything in the world that I had never heard of. I tried it all. The meat was not as tender as I would have liked but it was delicious none the less. I was satisfied and ate for about 2 hours straight. Some people come to that place for the quality of the food. I came for one reason: gluttony. The quality was a secondary reason in this instance and it didn’t matter, but was still one of the best meals I had ever had. Completely stuffed and proud of Team Bauer for her performance in the gluttony, I was content to go back to the ship. More than anything, all this does is get me excited for Dallas and Houston next year in football because we are going to Fogo in both places. EQ room here we come. Brian you have no idea what you are in for. Vegetarians and Vegans need not apply. We are carnivores, we are proud, and if you have a problem… we will eat you. Good day sir.
Getting back to the ship was sad. It was the official end to the most jammed packed breathtaking days of my life. As the ship pulled away, some people were happy to be leaving but all the people that were in our group got together and talked about Daniel. I didn’t want to leave. I really had a sense of connection to Brasil. It has left a dent on me that I will never forget and hope that more people get the chance to experience something half as amazing as I have. I am so lucky to get this opportunity. It is only the beginning. We are back at sea. We are on our way to South Africa.
I warned you this would be long, but if you ask me to explain it and tell you stories, it will be even longer. Brasil is full of culture and Carnival is something that you must experience to believe the chaos. We might have been more safe being around nothing but gay guys, I might have been more vulnerable than the women, but I would take nothing back and if I had the chance to do it again, I’d probably sleep less and do more. My feet will heal; they will get hurt again on this trip again I’m sure. I just hope that in my life that I get the opportunity to see this country again because I saw such a small slice and was fascinated with what I lived. I will come back to Brasil; it’s just a question of when.

I love Brasil. Chao.

Mama Afrika